| The Pro | How To Remove MSN Adverts From Sight |
| Submitted On: Thursday, May 27, 2010 at 7:46:59 PM |
Toasty Please login to rate this submission. Link to this Submission Blog and Forum Link HTML link Facebook / Pagereaders
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DO NOT ATTEMPT: Articles provided here are for INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. DO NOT undertake any project based upon any information obtained on the internet, including this website. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site. Please read the Legal page for more information. Replacing Front Sway Bar Links Improving ride or fixing broken parts On nearly all vehicles, the front and rear axles are tied to the frame of the car through several points, including control arms, "shackles", shocks/struts, and sway bars. Sway bars are mounted to the frame of a car at two points with bushings, which allows vertical movement (similar to the rotation of a clock hand). They are also attached to the control arms. Sway bars are made out of a spring steel to act as a torsional resistance medium during turns. When a car is turning right, for example, the sway bar will twist, forcing additional pressure against the left wheels (due to body rotation), and sourcing the extra tension from the right wheels. Sway bar links are relatively easy to replace, and consist of basic parts, generally a bolt with a special locking nut (sometimes Nylock, other times a compressed nut), some flanges, metal spacer bushings, and silicone or rubber bushings, which allow some play in the sway bar. Replacing these links doesn't require much for specialized tools, but with any automotive project, the more persuasion tools available (hammers, prybars, saws, and torches) the easier the job. Start off first by purchasing the new sway bar links. MOOG is one of the top brands:  Pictured above, one of my sway bar link kits. You'll need two of them (one for each side). I've yet to see two different kits on one car, but they are vehicle specific, so make sure to have the number checked by the parts store. Mine costed me $5.75/side, or roughly the cost of a pack of smokes each. Enjoy the view  You'll be sitting here for a little while getting things taken care of. First, remove the plastic caps (if you have them) over your lug nuts. Be careful to turn these counterclockwise, because they're very easy to snap right in half.  Here, the plastic caps are off. Before you lift your car, make sure to crack loose the lug nuts (don't remove them all the way). If you do remove them all the way, and the car's weight shifts, you might croak. Also note, if you didn't know this already, put the plastic caps back on -- you have no business working on a car.  Place the jack under a suitable spot of the frame (not the control arm) and lift it. If you do this wrong, the car might fall on you. USE JACK STANDS.  Once you remove the tire (tyre), you'll be able to see it. Pictured here, it's hard to notice if you've never changed them before. Let's look closer...   As you can see, the bottom rubber grommet is a bit flat. I'll demonstrate this further a little later. Usually the bolt that goes through it is trashed too, which you'll see.  There are many ways to do this. Cutting them off, melting them off, or simply unbolting them are the most common. First, use a wire brush or wheel and clean the threads. Then, douse the threads with a good penetrating oil (PB Blaster is great). I only had WD-40 around, so that worked fine too.  Using a ratchet. LOL, wait a minute...  Using ...
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| Tags: Grand, Prix, automotive, sway, bar, links, replacement, repair |
| Thursday, May 27th, 2010 at 8:36:38 PM #43788 |
 Dodge Site Admin 'Open foot, insert mouth' Level 19 Posts: 1,989 Submissions: 53  | Excellent guide. 5* material. PB Blaster is the shizznit. I buy it by the case at work. BTW, this is also the perfect time to check your wheel bearings, tierod ends, CV boots/joints, a-arm bushings, ball joints, etc. Poke around, see if you find anything loose, torn, or unclipped. Like an ABS wire retainer, for instance...  |
Oowwww. ( ̲̅:̲̅:̲̅:̲̅[̲̅ ̲̅]̲̅:̲̅:̲̅:̲̅ ̲̅)  Uses [view] tag. |
| Thursday, May 27th, 2010 at 8:45:06 PM #43796 |
 Toasty SysOp Level 40 Posts: 7,388 Submissions: 227 | Hahaha I seen that before Dodge. Thanks for seeing that too. The wheel I did that on has a blown CV Joint (the boot is wearing out, and there was grease everywhere) and the bearings on the front are going out. I have to save up to fix that crap though. |
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| Friday, May 28th, 2010 at 9:05:41 AM #43886 |
 Bier Member 'Autobots! Roll out!' Level 20 Posts: 1,296 Submissions: 128 | Oh great finally something i can use everyday!!! jk lol but 5*s dude, apparently there's some effort in this. |
Dead End Ex: Posted Jan. 16 2010 Miniature Ex: Posted Oct. 15 2010 |
| Saturday, May 29th, 2010 at 12:38:20 AM #43949 |
 teh1337 Member Level 10 Posts: 2,358 | Useless, i have a mechanic for a reason 0* |
I love men. |
| Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010 at 11:27:32 PM #45571 |
 commandpromt Member 'N00b' Level 14 Posts: 638 Submissions: 32 | How the fuck do you have 7.5/5? |
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| Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010 at 11:29:02 PM #45572 |
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Dodge Site Admin 'Open foot, insert mouth' Level 19 Posts: 1,989 Submissions: 53 | LoL, self-voter.... |
Oowwww. ( ̲̅:̲̅:̲̅:̲̅[̲̅ ̲̅]̲̅:̲̅:̲̅:̲̅ ̲̅) Uses [view] tag. |
| Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010 at 11:47:53 PM #45582 |
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Toasty SysOp Level 40 Posts: 7,388 Submissions: 227 | I have no idea what ya'll be talking about! |
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