| Adding a harddrive / restoring files from a bad harddrive. | Changing Differential Fluid |
| Submitted On: Monday, February 16, 2009 at 11:33:56 AM |
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DO NOT ATTEMPT: Articles provided here are for INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. DO NOT undertake any project based upon any information obtained on the internet, including this website. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site. Please read the Legal page for more information. Disc Brake Job Done Right BaboonAss Face it, brakes are just as important as the engine on a car. You can't just fly around town without stopping at some point. So I will take you from vehicle, to shop, back to vehicle and show you a proper brake job. What you will need (because of the vast differences, this may not include everything your particular make needs. When in doubt, get a Haynes manual): - New Rotors (see below - you might be able to reuse the old ones). - New Pads - New Hardware kit (shims, disc-quiet) You may also need to bleed brakes, replace calipers, check tone rings and sensors, etc...This articles is not designed to go into that much detail. __ The best point to jack up the front of a car/truck when doing the brakes is the lower control arm. This WILL hold the suspension under load, however it will make the height easier to work with so long as you don't plan on doing suspension work:  Before lifting the vehicle up, break the lugs nuts loose (don't remove them, just get them loose. You won't be able to turn them if the entire tire is turning. Use a jack stand ALWAYS. Jacks are not safe, I should know.  Remove the lugs nuts and tire:  This is what you will see, familiarize yourself with the components of the brakes and wheel assembly. This is what your typical front wheel drive or 4x4 front axle will look like. Rear wheel drive cars with front disc brakes sometimes have integrated bearings, which is not a part of this article.  Looking behind the bracket, you will see what we'll be working with first:  There should be two caliper bolts and two bracket bolts. You're going to remove these now (the caliper first).  Then remove the bracket bolts and slide the rotor off of the studs:  STOP! At this point you're going two routes: 1) You have access to a lathe and plan on machining the rotors yourself. 2) You are going to take the rotors to a shop and have them machined. Because I have access to a lathe, I will show you how they are machined. You can skip the next few parts if you don't care to see this. The first thing you want to do is grind the rust off of the "hat" or hub of the rotor, both on the outside (pictured) and the inside:  This will allow the lathe cups to mate with the surface and yield a more uniform cut. Using the cups and cones, mount the rotor onto the lathe shaft and wrap a silencer band around the diameter of the rotor. The silencer band prevents the rotor from chattering and leaving a poor cut on the surface:  Slowly move the tips of the cutters onto the rotor in the middle of the rotor. This will allow you to have a "safe origin" for where ...
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